Category Archives: Austrália

17abr/17
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Frankland Estate Alter Weg 2015

Alter weg – the old path – with a nod to Germany – barrel fermented and matured.

12.5%. Frankland river.

Struck and flint like; a citrus, curry leaf nose, perhaps the faintest hint of rot (botrytis). . . Soft and sweet in the mouth, spiced, mellow, fleshy. . . The tan and body are still Australian even if the accent is hard to place. . .

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Frankland Estate Alter Weg 2015

13abr/17

Old Mate Wine ‘It’s Lit" Riesling 2016

Something small and local. . . Try the Re store, but be quick.

Frankland river. Diam.

Crunchy and cloudy, even for a lover of murky wines, this is something else. . .Very aromatic, clean, ginger spice and bruised apples. . . I keep sniffing for glue and animals but not today. . . Tart and quick, here was I thinking it might be soft and attenuated. . . very savoury, quite delicious. Well worth the search.

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Old Mate Wine ‘It’s Lit" Riesling 2016

10abr/17
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Domaine Glantenay Pommard les Saussilles 2009

Despite the alcoholic warmth, this feels like winter. . . Deep and dark, shadowy. . . game and blood. . . a scary all alone in the forest type of pinot. . . I’m not completely convinced, it feels too cold and stern.

Before. More words, but similar ambivalence. . .

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Domaine Glantenay Pommard les Saussilles 2009

09abr/17
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Fuyu

A green curry of quail with purple snake beans. Poised, punchy and warming. Yet another David Coomer creation that will linger in my mind, though the spots on the podium are already occupied by his liquorice ice cream and the pata negraarroz. Very sad but understandable to hear that he has decided to pull up stumps and close shop. David – good luck and thanks for all the fine food memories. . .

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Fuyu

06abr/17
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Schmölzer and Brown ‘Brunnen’ Pinot noir 2015

Beechworth, Victoria. 13.5%.

After a series of skinny, bordering on anorexic wines, something close to normal weight and shape. Pale for an Aussie pinot; raspberry and creaming soda, then the sticks and stones and curry leaf. . . Bold, chiseled flesh; quite delicious, the illusion of softness and folds, but in reality it’s quite firm and athletic.

Yes.

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Schmölzer and Brown ‘Brunnen’ Pinot noir 2015

03abr/17
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Two Tonne Tasmania Ziggurat Pinot noir 2016

Pinot noir co-fermented with riesling and gewürztraminer skins. I can smell and feel the trainer, but not the riesling. . . it’s a curious wine, mostly pinot, but clearly enhanced, it’s almost, but not quite a fembot. . .

Pale and very fragrant; musk, strawberries, flint and spice. Flesh and perfume in the mouth – very polished and with more zip and oomph than you might expect. Yes.

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Two Tonne Tasmania Ziggurat Pinot noir 2016

01abr/17
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Chowder

I’m guessing these are Shark Bay clams, but I’ve no idea what the species is. I’d say they are a little smaller than an American little neck clam – so for my purposes – I needed about 50 clams (approx 1.2kg of bivalves).

First the all important clam broth – immerse your fresh bivalves in 5 cups of cold water, so they are just covered. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 10 minutes. They should open, discard the ones that won’t. Turn the heat off, remove the clam meat from the shells and roughly chop. I return the chopped meat the broth – to allow all of the grit to separate from the meat. Remove the meat from the broth – use a colander – this should allow the grit to remain in the liquid. Then filter the broth through a few layers of muslin or absorbent paper to finally remove all the sand and grit. Set aside. Rinse the pot.

Melt a tablespoon of butter in the cleaned pot and fry 150g of bacon cubes (1 inch thick slice bacon cut into small cubes) till well browned. Remove the bacon, set aside and then fry two leeks – that have been sliced into half thin moons. Stir and fry till clean, but not brown. Add 4 medium potatoes that have been cut into cubes and half a glass of dry white wine (left over Clare valley riesling or similar). Allow the wine to mostly evaporate then add 3-4 cups of the clam broth and 1 bay leave and two sprigs of thyme. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the herbs and when the potato has softened add 2 cups of full cream and the bacon and the chopped clam meat. Season with pepper, it should be salty enough. Allow the chowder to bubble briefly before turning the heat off, rest and cover the soup for at least 30-60 minutes and then reheat just before serving. Scatter with fresh parley leaves if desired.

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Chowder

30mar/17
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Sam Vinciullo Warner Glen Red / White 2016

Diam. 11.6%. A curious blend of Merlot and Semillon. Margaret River.

In the moments before opening, a flood of questions. Will it work? Why? Will it look like a rosé? It’s deeper in colour than expected, and the nose is hard to place – wet green sticks rubbed together, grape skins, musk and raspberry. Very acidic, like nails down a chalkboard, jangled and jarring. . . the second and third sip only slightly less anxious, and if you look you’l find green bean and sap. . . As they say -it’s better with food. . . the tannins, fruit derived, are chewy and brisk. Rated – I’m glad I tried it, but I won’t be buying a second bottle.

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Sam Vinciullo Warner Glen Red / White 2016

27mar/17
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Best’s Great Western Gentle Blend 2016

Riesling / Pinot Gris / Gewurtz / Muscat. 11.5%.

Playfully floral with white pepper, petals and citrus. Perfumed ++. Crisp, fleshy, spiked with spice and musk. Deft, dry to finish. Convincing and worthy.

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Best’s Great Western Gentle Blend 2016